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WILDLIFE OF PORTUGAL

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A scientific expedition with a taste of vacation: Return to ValBio Center – August 8

The return to the starting point is rarely just a walk back. It is a mix of accumulated fatigue, unexpected moments, and small stories that end up defining the entire experience.

Between the surprise of a successful night of captures, unexpected encounters with other species, and a long journey through the forest, this day became a perfect summary of the expedition: demanding, unpredictable, and deeply rewarding.

More than the final destination, it was along the way that some of the most memorable moments happened. Because in nature, we never really know what awaits us next.



The surprise

I woke up full of energy. The night before, I stayed behind with Vanessa to rest, while the rest of the team went out to capture bats. Only at breakfast would we find out how many they had managed to catch.

Once again, it was time to pack everything. Bags, tent, everything into rice sacks. The sun was just rising when we got up and started organizing. The bags were ready, only the tent was left. But first, breakfast.

Our cook would also be heading back to ValBio, so we gathered at the table and quickly found out the results: 32 bats captured. The one night I did not go, and they caught 32 bats. Typical.

I felt better when Ricardo explained that the space was extremely tight and that it was probably for the best that I had stayed behind. There would be more opportunities to photograph other bat species.

But the best moment was yet to come. Another research team approached us and said they had captured a mouse lemur and asked if we wanted to observe the processing. Of course, as biologists, we immediately followed.

Such a small and incredible animal. Like with the bats, it was measured and weighed, and in this case marked with temporary paint so it could be identified if recaptured.



The walking stick

We had a long hike ahead. The rest day had given me time to think of something simple but essential for the rest of the journey.

I built a walking stick for Vanessa.

Using part of a pole from the bat nets, I cut it to her height and added a rope grip so she could hold it comfortably. It was far from professional, but it worked perfectly for the situation, especially considering how demanding the hike would be.



The rice sacks

What impressed me the most was not how quickly the carriers could reach ValBio. It was the fact that by 6 a.m. they had already walked from the village of Ranomafana through forest trails to reach our camp.

They would carry all our equipment back to ValBio and then return on foot to Ranomafana. Some barefoot. Carrying massive loads on their heads. Singing for most of the journey.

Out of the corner of my eye, I even saw some of them almost running, trying to get back home in time for lunch. (For context, we only reached ValBio at the end of the day)



The morning hike

Backpacks ready, everything packed into rice sacks, camera gear on my back and tripod attached to the side, I thought I was ready for another adventure. Or so I believed.

I planned to photograph wildlife along the way, but I had also noticed some interesting spots for landscape photography during previous hikes. I kept those in mind.

Once again, the team split. Vanessa and I went ahead with Nirina and our cook. Thalya and Ricardo headed in the opposite direction with Mamatina to retrieve the audiomoths we had placed two days earlier. Since they could move faster, the plan was for them to catch up by lunchtime.

As we approached the first campsite, we encountered black-and-white lemurs again. I wondered if they were the same pair I had photographed days before.

It was almost midday, and they were settling down to rest. I stayed behind to film them while Vanessa continued slowly toward camp.

 


The first camp

We finally reached the first campsite, roughly halfway through the journey.

While waiting for the rest of the team, I photographed a few geckos basking in the sun on the tent roofs.

A few minutes later, the others caught up. We had a quick lunch and continued. There were still a few hours of walking ahead.

Ricardo headed off again to collect the remaining audiomoths, while Thalya continued with us at a slower pace, taking the opportunity to photograph along the way.

 


The endless walk

Hours passed as we continued through the forest. Eventually, we reached a familiar place: the tourist area of Ranomafana National Park. That gave us a boost. We were getting close to ValBio.

Despite the exhaustion, seeing lemurs again lifted the mood. Along the tourist trail, we encountered bamboo lemurs, some of which came down to the ground and walked right in front of us.

The photos were not great, but that did not matter. Standing there, exhausted, hungry, just wanting a bed, and watching those lemurs so close, it was an incredible moment.

 


Arrival at ValBio Center

We were just a few meters from the yellow bridge that marks the entrance to the park, and for us, the end of the forest journey.

The light was fading, but I decided to make the most of it. I switched to the Sony 70–200mm to capture more intimate landscapes, the bridge itself, and the path between the park and ValBio.

The small market stalls along the road were already closed. It was almost 5 p.m., and everyone else had gone home to rest. We were still walking.

Ricardo had likely already reached ValBio with the guides. The road between the park entrance and ValBio was busy, but in that moment, something special happened.

The sun lit up the forest and the path ahead, and I captured some of my favorite images of the entire trip.

A few meters further down, we reached the entrance to ValBio. In the distance, our rice sacks were waiting.

We unpacked everything and headed for dinner.



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